wrote in message news:4810@nxt.accurender.com...
> I'm heading out for a bit-- and then out of town tomorrow-- but I would start
> with something simple-- like Aloha. Don't try to get the hang of this by
> jumping into something like HFH right away-- better with something more
> interactive. Start with the sun off-- it's often hard to calibrate the sun
> and hdrs-- you can do it, but I wouldn't start there. Light the model with
> the hdr and click Visible. That should be pretty easy.
This what I get from Aloha using your suggested settings
(which, as it turns out, are the same ones I tried with HfH).
The projected background image is way brighter than the
lighting the model receives, I would guesstimate by at least
one stop and possibly two. HfH's results are identical.
> Keep in mind I'll be adding some more options here-- including lighting with a
> different hdr than the one that's visible-- and some more intensity
> multipliers.
If you can provide separate brightness/intensity controls
for the hdr lighting and the visible background, I think that
would work as a fix. It's essentially what I did through
work-around in AR4 by making the hdr not visible and
then mapping a non-hdr bitmap of the same image as
a spherical background and adjusting the brightness of
the background image in PhotoPaint.
> It's particularly difficult to create hdrs from photographs-- it really takes
> something like hdr shop and a series of photos taken at different f-stops to
> do it right. The default beach probe is a good one to start with, though-- it
> is low res-- but a high-res version of it should be floating around on-- maybe
> on Paul Debevec's site.
I didn't make my shore hdr from photos, it's a downloaded
hdr.
Gene
